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Most of what I describe on my walk isn't there anymore. The real craft of guiding is finding the one photograph that makes a vanished street visible again.

The viewing platform at the Fernsehturm is the one thing I regularly tell people to skip. Here's what I send them to do with those two hours instead.

Nobody books this part. Twenty minutes before every tour, standing by the World Clock with a green umbrella, I'm thinking about the same thing every time: am I going to be good today.

Berlin is flat, grey, and permanently under construction — and visitors are right about that. The mistake is trying to see more of it faster instead of standing still.

The question I'm asked most often is about the one thing my walk doesn't show you: what's actually left of the Berlin Wall. Here's where to go instead, and why my tour starts eight hundred years earlier.